Isométricos, fuerza de dedos y cuelgues (Escalada)
Posted: Wed Dec 06, 2017 7:19 pm
http://www.stevemaischtraining.com/isom ... ining.html
El tema es bastante minoritario, pero algunos por aquí escalan (escalamos) y otros puede que quieran fortalecer dedos.
El resumen:
Summary:
As I said earlier, my inclination is to go with strength trainers doing actual strength training with actual athletes. This would be Siff and Verkoshansky (1996), Bompa and Carrerra (2005), Low (2011) and Lopez (2012). Of this group we have one arguing for a repeater style workout on the finger board with the other three arguing for a single repetition. Of the single rep group we have a gymnastics coach and a climbing trainer. Climbing is definitely more similar to gymnastics and finger boarding than it is to squatting (no dis-respect to squatting). My conclusion in regard to the optimal fingerboard workout for improving maximum strength would then have the following characteristics:
Single hangs of 9 - 12 seconds with a 2 - 3 minute rest in between sets.
Number of sets per grip 3 - 9 sets.
Total amount of time hanging should be between 40 and 120 seconds.
Training weight is determined by total weight that can be hung from the grip being trained for 13 seconds.
El tema es bastante minoritario, pero algunos por aquí escalan (escalamos) y otros puede que quieran fortalecer dedos.
El resumen:
Summary:
As I said earlier, my inclination is to go with strength trainers doing actual strength training with actual athletes. This would be Siff and Verkoshansky (1996), Bompa and Carrerra (2005), Low (2011) and Lopez (2012). Of this group we have one arguing for a repeater style workout on the finger board with the other three arguing for a single repetition. Of the single rep group we have a gymnastics coach and a climbing trainer. Climbing is definitely more similar to gymnastics and finger boarding than it is to squatting (no dis-respect to squatting). My conclusion in regard to the optimal fingerboard workout for improving maximum strength would then have the following characteristics:
Single hangs of 9 - 12 seconds with a 2 - 3 minute rest in between sets.
Number of sets per grip 3 - 9 sets.
Total amount of time hanging should be between 40 and 120 seconds.
Training weight is determined by total weight that can be hung from the grip being trained for 13 seconds.
